ROCK CLIMBS IN YOSEMITE
eTOPOGRAPHICAL DIAGRAMS OF
SELECTED ROUTES
Edited by Dave Nicols
Collected, collated, drawn, etc. by
Pete Livesey, Keith Nannery, Dave Nicols
Contents
Introduction
Technical Practical Yosemite |
2009 Preface
Ed Hartouni
Ed Hartouni
This set of topos was available to climbers in 1974 and seems to be the first "published" set for Yosemite Valley. The history of topographical representations of climbs in the US is somewhat obscure. Roper's 1971 Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley has a legend of topo symbols, but reproduces no topos of climbs themselves.
The first topo published in the American Alpine Journal seems to be one Henry Kendall made of the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses in 1963. Kendall writes: 'The European climbers, before starting on a major ascent, "do their homework" by assembling what in France is called a "topo". A topo is not a topographic map but is as complete a route description as can be gathered by talking to other climbers who are familiar with the route. A topo is not a supplement to the usually inadequate guidebook description of a major climb-it supplants it entirely.'
Royal Robbins produced a topo of the North American Wall route on El Capitan for his 1965 article on that first ascent in the AAJ (see page 331). Glenn Denny captured an image in 1969 of Gary Colliver and Chris Jones comparing two topos for the Salathe Wall on El Capitan. In his book Yosemite (page 38-39 and 138) he writes: "at this time, no route topos had been published. They were hand drawn and passed from climber to climber until they fell apart."
Lito Tejada-Flores wrote in Ascent (July 1974) an article "The Guidebook Problem" in which he discussed the reservations of the time regarding detailed descriptions of climbs. The operative paragraph related to topos likens them to other tools the climber uses, and thus subject to the same debates regarding ethical and/or stylistic behavior:
"But one thing, at least, which we can agree on is that guidebooks do have an impact on the future of the climbing area they describe - so questions about guidebooks are really questions about the future. Right now, many climbers are trying to rediscover a meaningful future for their sport by re-inventing the rules of the game. Techniques, tools, ethics and style-all are being refined in the name of adventure and purity. Yet Marshall McLuhan has shown us that information is the most powerful tool of all. (The topo, the hardware list, the map and the guidebook - all are tools, each with its own ethical and stylistic weight.) And that is precisely why guidebooks and their use do pose a problem. What are the possible solutions?"
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So how has it turned out? Tejada-Flores' sentiment is exactly echoed by the new climber's verb "to SuperTopo" which is the act of broadly publicizing an area with information so complete that all that is left of the climb is the physical act of the climbing. All other matters are described in a manner that leaves room for little adventure. This verb is taken from the name of a popular publisher of detailed area guidebooks. Not all climbers agree that this is a bad thing, however, so the 35 year debate continues. Presented here are those first published topos.
This set of the Nichols topos was scanned from Roger Breedlove's copy of that guide. It is available for those who would like to consult a copy, though the routes have changed greatly in the intervening 30+ years. As with any information regarding climbs, the reader assumes all responsibilities for the use that they put this information to, we make it available to the community but do not assume any responsibility for its use. Note also that all the information is (pricing, transportation details, etc.) the 1974 information.
Please put foremost in your minds that rock climbing is inherently dangerous, and can be made safer, but is not safe. You can be injured or killed climbing. If you engage in this activity it is an indication that you are exercising individual choice and taking individual responsibility for the consequences of that choice. We do the same.
This set of the Nichols topos was scanned from Roger Breedlove's copy of that guide. It is available for those who would like to consult a copy, though the routes have changed greatly in the intervening 30+ years. As with any information regarding climbs, the reader assumes all responsibilities for the use that they put this information to, we make it available to the community but do not assume any responsibility for its use. Note also that all the information is (pricing, transportation details, etc.) the 1974 information.
Please put foremost in your minds that rock climbing is inherently dangerous, and can be made safer, but is not safe. You can be injured or killed climbing. If you engage in this activity it is an indication that you are exercising individual choice and taking individual responsibility for the consequences of that choice. We do the same.
Be careful out there, good luck, and climb safe.
INTRODUCTION
This guide was originally intended as a quick 'run-off' for use by the itinerant British climber, although it has now been considerably expanded. Needless to say we do hope that our North American cousins will find it both acceptable and useful. In order to aid the often all-too-short stay of the Yosemite visitor we have laid out a number of classic and enjoyable routes which include many of the finest itineraries in the area. Many new and restyled routes have been added, most of these tend to lean to the difficult side. In order to stimulate the metamorphosis of the uninitiated, a number of the more esoteric courses are offered. This small collection is in no way designed to replace the 'Roper' guide but merely to supplement that excellent production. The use of 'topos' has always been a mildly controversial issue. Undeniably topos make route-finding easier and give one a very clear picture of the route as a whole. Consequently the sense of adventure is blunted, some of the mystery lost. Nevertheless most climbers demand efficiency first. Topos are efficient. Most climbers in fact would vote for topos. However each to his own trip; for the very few, whom from choice, climb established sizeable routes without a topo; may they long continue to do so. I would like to thank Pete Livesey and Keith Nannery in particular for their help in drawing together material for this guide. Thanks also to George Homer and Jon Jones and the many Valley climbers who gave invaluable assistance. TECHNICAL NOTES The large loose-leaved format was found to be the only practicable one. It is recommended that topos are detached as needed and mounted in 'Transpaseal' or some such product. Routes are arranged as in the 'Roper' guide i.e. starting at the West end of the north side of the valley and finishing at the west end of the south side. With simultaneous use of the 'Roper' guide the location of routes should be obvious. With new routes adequate indications are added.<br> Over 70% of the enclosed climbs have been climbed by the three main contributors. Most of the topos were drawn during or directly after an ascent. The glaring exception is within the realm of the VI's. Only 30% being directly checked. However every effort was made to draw copy from recent (or only) ascent parties. Pin and nut lists are sometimes included, these should be treated with reservation. The status of climbs change quickly - aid pitches fall to the free climber almost daily. It is therefore impossible to give up to date information.<br> Signs & Symbols: (2) stance and end of pitch number B - bolt P - fixed pin h - hook move r - rivets n - fixed nut Corrections gratefully received by Dave Nicol, Hawse End Cottage Portinscale, Keswick, Cumbria, England. |
PRACTICAL YOSEMITE - Pete Livesey
In 1946 and 1947 John Salathe climbed two routes that were to trigger off an unprecedented revolution in climbing techniques and approach. His ascents of the S.W. Face of Half Dome and the Lost Arrow Chimney were instrumental in the creation of a climbing area that has become a household word, a reference point to climbers from whatever part of the world - Yosemite. Much has been written about Yosemite, many photographs published of what must be one of the finest rock climbing areas in the world. As the American climber makes his pilgrimage to Britain and the Alps, so the British climber feels incomplete without the experience of Yosemite. I hope this introduction will help achieve that aim. Expense may be seen as the biggest objection to a trip to Yosemite for the British climber, - this can however be alleviated by many more or less devious means. With a little inside information on how to get there, and what to expect in America and 'The Valley' a season in Yosemite costs very little more than the average Alpine Season. GETTING THERE: Yosemite lies in East Central California some 150 miles east of San Francisco and five and a half thousand miles west of London. It is a predominantly forested National Park, some 60 miles in diameter and lying between 3,000 and 11,000 feet high in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Flying is the only reasonable way of getting there, but the £400 standard return fare is beyond the reach of most climbers. There are alternative air fares however that make the journey excellent value for money. A.B.C. (Advance Booking Charters) are cheapest but least convenient. They can usually be obtained from any travel agents for two to eight week periods, from April to October. One must book and pay sixty days before flying, the cost ranging from £160 to £235 depending on when one flies and who with (Yosemite seasons are April-May-June and September-October, the cheapest time to fly). One can fly to Los Angeles or San Francisco, the latter being slightly preferable, but more flights go to Los Angeles. Some of the larger A.B.C. Firms do offer longer stop tickets, and these are usually at the cheapest rate. Cheaper still is to get a 'stand by' A.B.C. ticket. Two or three of these are issued for each flight, and one arrives at the airport and gets on if someone fails to show - otherwise you wait for the next A.B.C. flight. One way tickets are available this way. The sixty day booking regulation and inflexible return dates are the drawbacks of A.B.C. Next down the list are student flights: these are charter flights operated from Paris, and cost £195 return to San Francisco, including London - Paris fare. These can be booked up to three days beforehand and return dates are flexible. You do need to acquire a Student Card however, usually obtainable from University Travel Departments. More expensive still are excursion flights run by regular airlines - these are around £200 and usually limited to three or four weeks. It is possible, of course, to fly to New York or Toronto for £50 - £80 (A.B.C.) and hitch or bus across. To hitch takes 4 - 14 days and to bus costs as much as flying direct to the West Coast. These prices are correct for the 1975 season, but they are rising rapidly. One should always try more than one A.B.C. firm, their prices vary considerably. The least expensive, and certainly one of the most pleasant ways of reaching Yosemite I found for 1975 is to get the cheapest possible A.B.C. flight to New York (Laker) then buy a 'Visit U.S.A.' air ticket issued by the Association of Local Transport Airlines, and costs $150 dollars for unlimited travel on local airlines for 21 days. Using this method it is possible to fly London to Fresno (near the park) return for £145. Best to buy your 'Visit U.S.A' ticket in Britain. From Los Angeles or San Francisco to the Park the easiest way is to catch a Greyhound Bus on the LA-SF Valley route and alight at Merced. Buses from here to Yosemite leave in the early afternoon; total cost from LA/SF being 12-15 dollars. It is easy to hitch from Merced to the Park (90 Miles) and usually faster than the bus. Do not pay at the Park entrance, show your Passport and you enter free. If you want to see the States as well as visit Yosemite then the best and cheapest way is to fly to Toronto (A.B.C.) and use a Greyhound 'Usabus' ticket to travel anywhere in the U.S. or Canada for two weeks, a month or two months. These tickets cost £48 (for a two week pass) and must be bought in England before you go; Greyhound have a ticket office in London. |
LIVING THERE:
Camp Four, or Sunnyside Camp as it is now known, is the only campsite catering for the climbers' needs and it would be pointless using any of the other Valley camps. All are within a mile of the focal point, Yosemite Village, and all are served by a free bus service. Camp Four is behind the garage close to Yosemite Lodge, a hotel, bar and restaurant complex. The camping formalities in the camp change frequently; at present (1974) one is obliged to register at the site entrance and pay 50 cents per person per night. However, this fee is only collected conscientiously during the summer, the climbing seasons seeming to escape officialdom. There is also a 'seven day maximum stay' in summer, but this seems to be overlooked if you are a foreign climber. Individual campsites are grouped around a table and fireplace, six people per site, and it is obligatory to cook at the table. Tents are not necessary in summer, but are useful and convenient. A flysheet isn't needed however, and if you're short of space a sheet of local polyethene is the answer. During spring and autumn the nights are quite cold and a tent is necessary. A paraffin stove is the cheapest way of cooking - find a can and get your fuel (called Kerosene) from the garage in Yosemite Village, 60 cents a gallon. Americans normally use petrol stoves that burn 'White Gas' at 80 cents a gallon, obtainable from the same garage. As stoves are not normally taken on routes, weight and size are not crucial. Food is best bought at the Village Supermarket, and prices are comparable with British Supermarket prices. Avoid tinned vegetables and meats, very expensive, but fresh vegetables and meat are cheaper than Britain. It is usually more economical to eat rice and noodles than potatoes, but there's not much in it. The cheapest meals are salads and chuck steak, kidneys, chicken backs, fishy fingers, or an American invention called 'Tuna Helper' and 'Mince Beef Helper' - all cheaper than similar British food. Stores are open until 9:00 or 10:00 p.m. and it's around this time that bargains are to be had - free meat and cheese scraps from the 'Deli' or surplus precooked food from the cafes. Eating out is fairly expensive in the Park, generally 50% up on British prices, though there is little difference outside the park. Of the seven cafes and restaurants in the park, the take-away chicken and pizza cafe in the village gives the best value. 'Scarfing' is popular but illegal in the cafeterias; Americans buy vast meals then leave most of it; climbers assist by discreetly disposing of the rest. One can have a large, cheap meal in the Lodge restaurants by ordering soup, green salad and baked potato, then making full use of the frills. Drink is best bought at the Supermarket - beer here is rather cheaper than in Britain, but the cheapest buy is wine or port in gallon bottles. There is a bar at Yosemite Lodge, but it's very expensive if you buy drinks inside; in summer it's more usual to drink at tables outside the village stores. A word of warning here about bears and things; Camp Four is full of furry and feathery things that steal food and are usually two steps ahead of you and your attempts to stop them. Basically all food, or anything that smells of food, must be in one of the tin trunks lying around the campsite, or in a sac hanging from a tree. Bears are unbelievably strong and ingenious - they have been known to open cars like a tin opener to get at bread crumbs on the floor. WHAT TO BRING: It is normal to climb in vest and shorts, though normal British summer rock climbing clothing is needed for longer routes. Climbing gear need only be the same as one would use in Britain, but with rather more nuts, especially the larger size. It is rare to see climbers carrying more than half a dozen pegs nowadays. It is probably better to have rather more crabs than normal; climbers here tend to put two on fixed pegs rather than use a piece of tape. For the longer aid routes a light sleeping bag, Karrimat, protective clothing and a tube tent are ideal, with two extra sets of nuts or pegs depending on the route. A pair of Jumars and an abseiling device are mandatory. It is not usual to wear a helmet, though a harness is very useful to fall onto and as an excuse for failing in off-width cracks and chimneys. E.B's are the usual boot, with perhaps a back up pair of P.A.'s, R.D.'s or gollies for the longer routes - rock boots with a vibram sole are not really viable any more. |
THE CLIMBING:
The two main climbing seasons are the April/May/June spring season and the September/October fall season. The former cooler weather but melting snow may be a problem on some routes in April. The spring season is a highly competitive time for local climbers while the autumn season is more of a 'cooling off from the summer' time. Best months for the big walls are May/June and September. It is perfectly possible to climb in the Valley during the summer months, the only impractical routes being the big routes on El Capitan; other multi day routes being in the shade for a reasonable part of the day, and Half Dome being distinctly pleasant. Some difficulty may be experienced at and after midday when on sunstruck climbs the rock and one's feet become unbearably hot. Many valley climbers emigrate to the Tuolumne Meadows area of the park in summer. At 8,000 ft. it is generally much cooler, but also wetter and mosquito infested during July and August. The meadows are 60 miles by road from the Valley, or two days walk on easy trails. The guide book to Yosemite, 'Roper's Guide' should complement these topo's, and is an immensely funny and worthwhile book available at park bookshops. It is well out of date however, and new route information not contained here can usually be found in the 'New Routes Book' that lives behind a mirror in Camp Four. There is a one way traffic system in the Valley that makes hitching to the foot of routes fairly easy - hitching in the park generally IS very easy but illegal! If climbing in the summer months then it is usually best to climb on the south side in the morning and the north side in the afternoon - this only applies to short routes however. The concern for ethics is much stronger in the U.S. than Britain, though the concerned British climber should face no problems. Nuts, are used almost exclusively now on free routes, with increasing use on big aid climbs, though nut 'tapping' appears to be a popular pastime. The crack routes frequently have very parallel sided cracks that take Chouinard polycentrics much better than the traditional British wedge or hexagon shape. However, as most routes were originally pegged or protected with pegs, the widening effect of the pegs has produced numerous perfect placements for the British style wedge. The full Clog and MOAC range of wired wedges are in fact much superior to the American equivalents. Gradings are impossible to compare with those in real life: Yosemite's fairy tale routes have problems that don't occur in other areas, climbs tend to be categorised by their usually uniform characters, i.e. crack, slab, Chimney or layback, a distinction one could not make in Britain. The difficulties arise, not in the technicality of one move, but in one's ability or otherwise to repeat that move continuously for a hundred feet or so. Falling off is a much safer, pleasanter and acceptable tactic than in Britain; the rock is smoother and generally free of obstructions that would break one's fall or leg. Climbs are also graded by length, or rather time. These gradings give an idea of what to take on the climb - as a rough guide the following should suffice: Grade I, II and III take nothing; Grade IV take a water bottle; Grade V free, a water bottle and little food, perhaps a sweater also; Grade V aid, if you take bivvy gear you'll have one, if you leave it you probably won't need it. Grade VI, full haul sac. |